Step-by-Step Water Heater Installation

Water Heater Installation Denver requires access to the home plumbing system and, for gas units, an approved venting system. Local building codes often require permits for projects that affect plumbing and electricity, and may include inspections to ensure your work complies with safety and environmental standards.

Switch off the water supply to the heater at the main shutoff valve and isolate power with the circuit breaker (or pull fuses). Turn off any gas connections at the valves on the tank.

The tank of the water heater is one of the biggest parts of your home’s hot water system. It holds the hot water until you need it, then pumps it out of a pipe at the top. It has a drain valve near the bottom for emptying sediment and a shut-off valve at the top to turn off the flow of water into the tank.

Start by preparing your tools and making sure there’s no power running to the water heater by checking the circuit with a volt meter or circuit tester. Make sure to wear protective gear like gloves and safety glasses when working on an energized circuit.

Remove the cover from the electrical junction box on the top of the tank and connect a conduit connector to the home’s bare copper or green ground wire, then insert the connector into the hole in the junction box. Screw the power wires into the new terminal block, then replace the junction box cover. Make sure the new wiring connections are secure and insulated, especially if the outdoor installation area is cold.

If you’re installing a gas water heater, have a licensed plumber connect the gas line to the new tank. They’ll also need to install the venting, which is a requirement for all gas appliances.

In an indoor installation, place the tank in a drain pan (on or off the pedestal as dictated by local codes). It’s important to protect your floor and any people in the vicinity from hot water leaks and pressure valve runoffs, and to keep any gas fumes away from heat sources like fireplaces and wood stoves.

Before you disconnect the old water heater, attach a hose to the drain valve and place the other end of the hose over a floor drain or outdoors so it can drain completely before turning off the drain valve. If you’re reusing the old water heater, drain it again by opening the valve and placing a hose over the drainage pipe. If you’re removing the tank, put it on a trolley or forklift to haul it out and away from your home to a proper disposal site.

Installing the Thermostat

Thermostats in electric water heaters play a significant role in heating your hot water. If yours stops working or isn’t providing enough hot water for you to use, it might be time to replace it. Luckily, replacing the thermostat is a relatively easy task that doesn’t require any special tools.

The first step is to shut off the power to the heater using the circuit breakers. This protects you from electrocuting yourself or damaging the water heater. Next, remove the upper and lower access panels from the sides of the water heater, if you need to do so. You’ll also want to move any insulation away from the panel or heat shield that covers it.

Once you’ve removed the access panels, note where the power wires are connected to the upper and lower thermostats and disconnect them to isolate the thermostats from the water heater. It’s a good idea to mark the location of each of these wires with tape before you disconnect them so you know how to reconnect them.

It’s important to not bend the metal tabs that extend out from the side of the thermostats, as this can damage them and make it harder for you to replace the thermostats later. Instead, gently rotate the plastic disk that holds the thermostat in place so one of its notches lines up with a tab. Once you do, the thermostat will pop right out.

After you’ve removed the old thermostat and installed a new one, test it by reattaching its wires to the water heater and turning on the power. If the water heater produces hot water, it’s probably in good condition.

If you’re unsure about your abilities, you can always call a professional to complete this task for you. However, if you’re willing to take the risk, this is a project that most homeowners can do themselves. Just make sure to follow the safety instructions printed on the water heater and outlined in the user manual. In addition, wear work gloves and use a flathead screwdriver to avoid damaging the new thermostat or your tank.

Connecting the Pipes

Water heater installation is one of the most important parts of a plumbing job, and it often takes the longest. The exact steps may vary slightly by type of water heater, and local code requirements can also affect the process.

Begin by shutting off the supply lines to the old water heater. For a gas water heater, turn off the valve at the incoming cold-water line. You may need to disconnect and reconnect flexible water heater connectors, depending on how the new water heater is installed in your home. If you are using a kit that includes these, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to attach them. You will also need to connect a new drain valve, which should be located outside the tank near the bottom. If your water heater uses natural gas, you will need to install a carbon monoxide detector near the unit as well.

Next, measure the distance between the water heater’s fittings for the hot and cold water lines and your home’s pipes. If necessary, cut new lengths of copper pipe. Solder the copper tube to the fittings on the top of the water heater, using FIP (Female Adapter) adapters. Make sure you use only copper, as CPVC or PVC pipe cannot be solvent-welded to copper. You will also need to solder new nipples to the top of the water heater, if it has them. These are usually plastic-lined and have threads that match the metal water heater fittings. Some codes require steel nipples to separate the water heater’s threaded metal connections from the plastic pipe and protect them from conducted burner heat.

If you are installing a gas water heater, you will also need to solder a metal vent pipe to the top of the water heater. This vents the carbon monoxide generated by the burner to the outdoors, keeping it away from your home. You may need to install a sediment trap at the end of the gas vent pipe, as well, if your city requires it.

You will need to set the new water heater on a platform, especially if you are replacing an existing gas or electric water heater. This is to ensure the combustion air needed by your new water heater will be available. You will also need to check the clearances between your water heater and combustible materials, as specified in the owner’s manual for your specific model.

Installing the Valve

The gas valve on your water heater is another important component that needs to be working properly. When you need to turn it on, it needs to light and stay lit. If it doesn’t, this can be a sign that there is an issue with the thermocouple, thermostat, or pilot light. If you suspect that your gas valve isn’t working correctly, it is a good idea to call in a professional.

To test the gas valve, start by shutting off the power or gas to the tank. Then, open a faucet and drain a few gallons of hot water from the tank. This will help to relieve any pressure that may be building in the tank. Once the tank is empty, you can disconnect the wires from the gas valve using a wrench and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Once the wires are disconnected, you can also use a wrench to remove the valve handle.

The next step is to install the new T&P valve. Start by closing the water supply valve to the tank and then draining the old one. If your water heater has a removable handle, you can unscrew the handle and replace the washer behind it. If your valve is made of plastic, you will need to first unscrew it by hand, turning counterclockwise four complete revolutions.

After installing the new T&P valve, you will need to connect a discharge line from the valve to a safe place for water to drain out of. This will reduce water damage and scalding when the TPR valve is triggered to release steam or drain excess water. This discharge line can be piped to the outside of the house, an indoor catch pan or drain, or a floor drain in the garage.

If you are using a floor drain in your garage, you will need to add a bollard to protect the drainage area from physical damage from cars or motorcycles. These are available at most hardware stores. Alternatively, you can make your own bollard by using a piece of CPVC tubing, a sleeve, and a fitting that fits the drain opening.